- Palermo and Recoleta are the easiest, safest bases for first-timers
- Dinner starts around 9-10pm and milongas run past midnight
- International flights use Ezeiza, but most domestic flights leave from Aeroparque
- Spring and autumn are warm without the humid heat of January
- Airports
- Buenos Aires Ezeiza (EZE) for international flights, Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) for most domestic flights
- Best time to go
- March-May and September-November
- Type
- City
Buenos Aires feels like a European capital that has been transplanted to the southern hemisphere and given a Latin rhythm. Wide boulevards and belle époque buildings sit alongside colourful working-class barrios, cafés are full at all hours and nobody thinks of dinner before 9pm. Most trips to Argentina start and end here, and it deserves at least three days of its own.
It is a big, sprawling city, so where you stay makes a real difference. This guide covers the best areas, what to do and how to get around.
Where to stay
- Palermo – the largest district, split into Palermo Soho (boutiques, bars, street art) and Palermo Hollywood (restaurants and nightlife), with big parks nearby. The most popular base for visitors.
- Recoleta – elegant and calm, with grand apartment blocks, the famous cemetery and museums. A good choice for a quieter stay.
- San Telmo – the oldest barrio, with cobbled streets, antiques shops and tango bars. Characterful, but parts are rough at night.
- Puerto Madero – the redeveloped docklands, with modern high-rise hotels and riverside walks. Safe and polished but a little soulless.
Things to do
- Recoleta Cemetery – a city of ornate mausoleums, including the tomb of Eva Perón. There is an entry fee for foreign visitors.
- San Telmo Sunday market – stalls of antiques, crafts and street performers along Calle Defensa, with tango in Plaza Dorrego.
- La Boca – the brightly painted Caminito street and the Boca Juniors stadium, La Bombonera. Stick to the main tourist streets and visit in daylight.
- Plaza de Mayo – the political heart of the country, with the pink Casa Rosada presidential palace and the cathedral.
- Tango – watch a polished dinner show, or go to a milonga, a dance hall where locals dance, for something more authentic. Many offer a beginners' class first.
- Eat and drink – a parrilla (steakhouse) for beef and Malbec, a café such as the historic Café Tortoni, and ice cream from one of the city's many heladerías.
- Tigre and the delta – a day trip by train to explore the islands and channels of the Paraná Delta by boat.
Football tickets for Boca Juniors or River Plate are hard to get as a visitor. A reputable tour that includes tickets and transport is the simplest and safest option.
Getting there and around
There are no direct flights from the UK; most routes connect through Madrid, Paris, Amsterdam, São Paulo or a US hub, taking about 16 to 18 hours. Ezeiza airport is about 35km from the centre, roughly 45 minutes to an hour by taxi, ride-hailing app or official airport bus. Domestic flights to the Iguazu Falls, Patagonia and Ushuaia, the port for Antarctica expeditions, mostly use Aeroparque, close to Palermo.
The Subte (metro) and buses are cheap and run on a rechargeable SUBE card. Ride-hailing apps are widely used. Ferries cross the River Plate to Colonia del Sacramento in Uruguay in about an hour, a popular day trip.
When to go
March to May and September to November are the best months, with warm days and cool evenings; spring brings purple jacaranda blossom from around late October. January and February are hot and humid, and many locals leave the city. Winter, June to August, is cool but rarely cold.
Top attractions in Buenos Aires
NatureIguazú Falls
Hundreds of waterfalls thundering through subtropical rainforest on the Argentina-Brazil border.
NaturePerito Moreno Glacier
A wall of ice up to 70 metres high, close enough to hear it crack and crash into Lago Argentino.
Buenos Aires on the map
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Buenos Aires?
Three full days covers the main neighbourhoods, a tango night and a good steak. With four or five days, add Tigre or a ferry to Colonia in Uruguay.
Is Buenos Aires safe?
It is generally safe in the main tourist neighbourhoods, but pickpocketing and phone snatching are common. Keep phones out of sight on the street, be wary of anyone squirting something on your clothes as a distraction, and take taxis at night.
Is Buenos Aires expensive?
Prices have risen a lot in recent years. A meal at a good parrilla with wine is still reasonable compared with London, but hotels and imported goods can cost close to UK levels. Check current prices before you go.
Written by
Emma City breaks & deals editor
Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.
More from EmmaWe research every guide carefully, but prices, opening times and timetables change. Check them shortly before you travel. Links to our booking partners are affiliate links.
