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Jordan · City guide

Amman travel guide: where to stay, things to do & day trips

The surviving columns of the Roman Temple of Hercules on the Amman Citadel under a blue sky with white clouds
Photo: AliAbuRas, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Two days covers the main sights and a day trip
  • Stay in Jabal Amman or Jabal al-Weibdeh for character and cafés
  • The Citadel at sunset gives the best views over the city
  • Jerash, Madaba and the Dead Sea are all within about an hour
Airports
Amman Queen Alia (AMM)
Best time to go
March-May and September-November
Type
City

Many visitors treat Amman as a place to land before heading south to Petra, but Jordan's capital deserves a couple of days. Built over a series of steep hills, or jabals, it mixes Roman and Umayyad ruins with a busy downtown souq, leafy residential streets full of cafés and some of the best food in the Middle East. It is also a safe, easy base for day trips. For the wider trip, see our Jordan guide.

Where to stay

  • Jabal Amman – home to Rainbow Street and the old residential area around the First to Third Circles. Walkable to downtown, with plenty of restaurants and boutique hotels.
  • Jabal al-Weibdeh – an arty, laid-back neighbourhood of old stone houses, galleries and cafés, close to downtown.
  • Downtown (Al-Balad) – right by the Roman Theatre and souqs. Cheap and atmospheric, though noisy and mostly budget hotels.
  • Abdoun and Shmeisani – smarter districts with international chain hotels and malls, further from the historic sights.

Things to do

  1. The Citadel – the hilltop site of the Temple of Hercules and the Umayyad Palace, with sweeping views across the city. Go late afternoon for the light.
  2. Roman Theatre – a 6,000-seat, 2nd-century theatre carved into the hillside downtown, with small folklore museums attached.
  3. The Jordan Museum – a modern museum covering the country's history, including some of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
  4. Downtown souqs and food – wander the gold and spice souqs, eat falafel and hummus at a classic diner such as Hashem, and try knafeh, a sweet cheese pastry.
  5. Rainbow Street – cafés, rooftop bars and a Friday market.
  6. Day trips – Jerash's Roman city is about 50km north; Madaba's Byzantine mosaics and Mount Nebo are around 40 minutes south-west; the Dead Sea is about an hour away.

Getting there and around

Queen Alia International Airport is about 35km south of the city, roughly 40-50 minutes by road. The Airport Express bus runs to the North Bus Station, but most visitors take a taxi or ride-hailing car. Amman is not built for walking between districts, with steep hills and busy roads, so use ride-hailing apps such as Uber or Careem, or the city's white taxis with a meter. The Bus Rapid Transit is growing but is mainly used by commuters. Hire a car when you leave for the south rather than in the city.

When to go

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) bring warm days and cool evenings. Summer is hot but less extreme than the Jordan Valley, thanks to the altitude. Winter is cool and can be wet, with occasional snow, so pack layers. During Ramadan, many restaurants close in daytime but the city comes alive after sunset.

Top attractions in Amman

Amman on the map

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Amman?

Two days is enough for the Citadel, Roman Theatre and downtown plus one day trip, usually to Jerash or the Dead Sea.

Is Amman walkable?

The downtown area is walkable, as are Jabal Amman and Jabal al-Weibdeh, but the hills are steep. Use taxis or ride-hailing apps to get between districts.

Can you visit the Dead Sea from Amman in a day?

Yes. The Dead Sea resorts are about an hour by road, and many sell day passes with beach access, pools and showers.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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