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Thailand · City guide

Bangkok travel guide: where to stay, temples, food & getting around

Boats on the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok, with the city skyline along the riverbank
Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Stay by the river for temples or in Sukhumvit and Silom for transport and nightlife
  • Use river boats, the BTS Skytrain and the MRT to beat the traffic
  • Dress modestly for the Grand Palace and temples
  • Ignore anyone who says a sight is closed today
Airports
Bangkok Suvarnabhumi (BKK), Bangkok Don Mueang (DMK)
Best time to go
November-February
Type
City

Bangkok is where most Thailand trips begin, and it deserves more than a night between flights. It is hot, loud and sprawling, but also full of beautiful temples, a fascinating river and some of the best street food in the world. Two or three days lets you see the highlights before heading north or to the beaches. For the wider picture, see our Thailand guide.

Where to stay

  • Riverside – grand hotels along the Chao Phraya River, with free shuttle boats to the piers. Romantic, and handy for the temples.
  • Sukhumvit – the long road east of the centre, with hotels at every budget, restaurants, rooftop bars and the BTS Skytrain. The most practical base.
  • Silom and Sathorn – the business district, near Lumphini Park, with good transport and nightlife.
  • Old Town (Rattanakosin and Banglamphu) – walking distance to the Grand Palace and home to Khao San Road. Atmospheric, but there is no Skytrain.

Things to do

  1. Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew – the former royal residence and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most sacred site. Go at opening time.
  2. Wat Pho – a short walk from the palace, with a 46-metre gold reclining Buddha and a respected traditional massage school.
  3. Wat Arun – the Temple of Dawn across the river, decorated with Chinese porcelain. It looks best from the east bank at sunset.
  4. Chinatown (Yaowarat) – after dark the main road becomes one of the city's best street-food strips.
  5. Chatuchak Weekend Market – more than 10,000 stalls selling everything from clothes to ceramics. Go early, before the heat.
  6. A canal boat trip – take a long-tail boat through the Thonburi canals for a glimpse of older riverside life.
  7. Rooftop bars – Bangkok has dozens. Check the dress code, as many refuse flip-flops and shorts.

Getting there and around

Direct flights from London Heathrow take about 11 hours 30 minutes to Suvarnabhumi (BKK). The Airport Rail Link reaches Phaya Thai station, which connects with the BTS Skytrain, in about 26 minutes. Taxis from the official rank on Level 1 should use the meter, plus an airport surcharge and expressway tolls. Some budget Asian airlines use Don Mueang (DMK), north of the city.

Traffic is notorious, so use the BTS Skytrain and MRT underground where you can. The Chao Phraya Express boats are cheap and scenic for reaching the temples. Grab and Bolt are easy for cars and motorbike taxis. Tuk-tuks are fun for short hops, but agree the price first.

A friendly stranger who says the Grand Palace is closed today, then offers a cheap tuk-tuk tour, is running a well-known gem-shop scam. Check opening times yourself and walk on.

When to go

November to February is the most comfortable time, with less humidity and highs of around 30-32 °C. March to May is very hot, and mid-April brings the Songkran water festival, when the whole city turns into a water fight. The rainy season, from June to October, brings heavy afternoon storms and occasional flooding, but lower hotel prices. Pair Bangkok with Phuket for a city-and-beach trip.

Top attractions in Bangkok

Bangkok on the map

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Bangkok?

Two or three days covers the main temples, a market, Chinatown and a rooftop bar. Add a day for a trip to Ayutthaya, the old capital.

What should I wear to the Grand Palace?

Cover your shoulders and knees: no vests, shorts, short skirts or see-through tops. Long trousers or a long skirt and a T-shirt with sleeves are fine.

Is Bangkok safe for tourists?

Generally yes. Watch out for scams, pickpockets in crowded markets and traffic, and use meter taxis or ride-hailing apps.

Written by

Thomas Ski, mountains & expeditions editor

Thomas is happiest above the tree line or below the Antarctic Circle. He writes our ski, mountain and polar expedition guides.

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