- Most trips route via Auckland, about a four-hour flight from Rarotonga
- Aitutaki's lagoon is the highlight and an easy short flight from Rarotonga
- English is widely spoken and cars drive on the left
- It is quieter and usually cheaper than French Polynesia or Bora Bora
- Airports
- Rarotonga International (RAR), Aitutaki (AIT)
- Flight time
- about 26-30h from London to Rarotonga, usually with two stops via Auckland or Los Angeles
- Best time to go
- May-October (dry season); November-April is hotter, wetter and has a cyclone risk
- Currency
- New Zealand dollar (NZ$), with local Cook Islands coins and notes
The Cook Islands are 15 islands scattered across a vast area of the South Pacific, roughly halfway between New Zealand and Hawaii. Rarotonga, the main island, is small enough to drive round in about 45 minutes, with a rugged green interior, a reef-protected lagoon and an easy, friendly pace of life. A short flight north, Aitutaki has one of the most beautiful lagoons on earth, dotted with sandy motu islets, while islands such as Atiu and Mangaia offer caves, birdlife and a glimpse of traditional island life.
The Cook Islands are self-governing in free association with New Zealand, so English is spoken everywhere alongside Cook Islands Māori, cars drive on the left and plugs are the Australian/New Zealand angled type at 240 volts, so bring an adapter. The islands are 10 hours behind GMT, so 10 hours behind the UK in winter and 11 in British Summer Time; you cross the International Date Line coming from Auckland, so you arrive "before" you left. This Oceania guide covers the islands, the best time to go and what to budget.
Entry requirements
British passport holders don't usually need a visa and are normally granted up to 31 days on arrival as a visitor, which can be extended locally. You'll need a passport valid for at least six months beyond your planned departure, a return or onward ticket and confirmed accommodation. Check the transit rules for your route too: New Zealand requires an NZeTA for most British travellers, even in transit, and the USA requires an ESTA. Rules change, so check GOV.UK foreign travel advice before booking.
Where to go in the Cook Islands
Rarotonga
Most visitors base themselves here. Muri Lagoon on the south-east coast is calm and shallow, ideal for snorkelling, paddleboarding and glass-bottom boat trips. The Cross-Island Track is a challenging half-day hike past the Needle (Te Rua Manga), and Avarua, the small capital, has the Saturday Punanga Nui Market, a great place for food, crafts and local music.
Aitutaki
About 45-50 minutes by plane from Rarotonga, Aitutaki's huge turquoise lagoon is the image on most Cook Islands postcards. Take a lagoon cruise to One Foot Island (Tapuaetai), snorkel with giant trevally and clams, and enjoy some of the islands' best resorts. It works as a day trip, but two or three nights is far better.
Atiu
Known as Enuamanu, the land of birds, Atiu has limestone caves such as Anatakitaki, home to the rare kopeka bird, as well as coffee growing and traditional tumunu bush beer gatherings.
Mangaia
The oldest island in the Pacific, Mangaia has a ring of raised fossil coral cliffs called the makatea, burial caves and a very quiet, traditional feel.
Best time to visit the Cook Islands
| Season | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Dry season (May-October) | Warm and sunny, about 25-26 °C by day; less humid and ideal for outdoor activities; peak season in New Zealand school holidays |
| Wet season (November-April) | Hotter, more humid, with short heavy showers; cyclone season, though direct hits are uncommon |
| Whale season (July-October) | Humpback whales can often be seen offshore from Rarotonga |
Getting there from the UK
There are no direct UK flights. The usual route is to fly to Auckland via Asia or the USA, then on to Rarotonga with Air New Zealand or Jetstar in about four hours. Air New Zealand has also flown direct between Los Angeles and Rarotonga, and there are flights from Sydney. Allow 26-30 hours in total. Many travellers combine the Cook Islands with a trip to New Zealand or Australia, or as a round-the-world stop.
Rarotonga has just one main coast road, so a two-wheel trip round the island is a classic first day; rules on licences for hiring scooters have changed in recent years, so check what you need before you go.
Getting around
On Rarotonga, the island bus runs clockwise and anticlockwise round the coast road and is the easiest way to get about. Cars, scooters and e-bikes are widely available to hire, and the speed limit is low. Air Rarotonga flies to Aitutaki several times a day and to Atiu, Mangaia and other outer islands less often. Day tours to Aitutaki from Rarotonga include flights, a lagoon cruise and lunch.
Money and costs
The New Zealand dollar is used alongside local Cook Islands coins and notes, which can't be used outside the islands. Prices are high because most goods are imported, but the Cook Islands are usually better value than French Polynesia. Expect about NZ$250-400 (roughly £115-185) per person per day for a mid-range trip, more on Aitutaki. Self-catering apartments and the Punanga Nui market help save money. Tipping is not customary.
Frequently asked questions
Is Rarotonga or Aitutaki better?
Rarotonga has more to do and more places to stay; Aitutaki has the better lagoon and a more secluded feel. Ideally spend time on both.
Do they speak English in the Cook Islands?
Yes. English is an official language and is spoken everywhere, alongside Cook Islands Māori.
How many days do you need in the Cook Islands?
A week to ten days, split between Rarotonga and Aitutaki, is ideal after such a long journey.
Is the Cook Islands expensive?
It isn't cheap, but it is more affordable than Bora Bora or Fiji's top resorts, especially if you stay in self-catering accommodation on Rarotonga.
Written by
Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor
Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.
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