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Spain · Region guide

Basque Country travel guide: Bilbao, San Sebastián & the coast

Flysch formation on Sakoneta beach between Deba and Zumaia, Basque Country
Photo: Jörg Braukmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Bilbao airport has direct UK flights and is about 1h15 by bus from San Sebastián
  • San Sebastián has one of Europe's best city beaches and a legendary pintxos scene
  • Expect greener, cooler and wetter weather than southern Spain
  • Ferries from Portsmouth to Bilbao make it an easy road trip
Airports
Bilbao (BIO), San Sebastián (EAS), Biarritz in France (BIQ)
Best time to go
June-September; May and October for fewer crowds
Type
Region

The Basque Country (Euskadi in Basque) is a world away from the Spain of flamenco and Costa beaches. This is a green, mountainous corner on the Bay of Biscay, with its own ancient language, a fierce sense of identity and some of the best food in Europe, from bar-top pintxos to Michelin-starred restaurants. Bilbao has reinvented itself around the Guggenheim Museum, while elegant San Sebastián sits on a perfect shell-shaped bay.

Spain is one hour ahead of the UK, plugs are the two-pin European type and you drive on the right. The Basque Country is one of the more expensive parts of Spain, especially San Sebastián in summer. You'll see signs in both Basque and Spanish. See our Spain guide for the wider picture.

Where to stay

  • San Sebastián (Donostia) – the Parte Vieja (old town) for pintxos bars, the Centro and La Concha seafront for elegance, or Gros for surfers and a younger vibe. Book well ahead for summer.
  • Bilbao – the Casco Viejo (old town) for atmosphere, or the Abando and riverside areas near the Guggenheim. Generally better value than San Sebastián.
  • Coastal towns – Zarautz has a long surf beach; Getaria is a fishing village famous for grilled fish and txakoli wine; Mundaka is known for its surf break.
  • Vitoria-Gasteiz – the regional capital, with a well-preserved medieval centre and easy access to the Rioja Alavesa wine area.

Things to do

  1. Guggenheim Museum Bilbao – Frank Gehry's titanium-clad landmark, with modern art inside and Jeff Koons's flower-covered Puppy outside.
  2. La Concha beach – one of Europe's finest city beaches, in San Sebastián.
  3. Pintxos crawl – hop between bars in San Sebastián's Parte Vieja or Bilbao's Casco Viejo, trying a small bite and a drink in each.
  4. Monte Igueldo and Monte Urgull – viewpoints over San Sebastián's bay; Igueldo has an old funicular and a small amusement park.
  5. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe – a hermitage on a rocky islet reached by a stone causeway and steps. Free entry needs booking in busy periods.
  6. Getaria and Zarautz – a lovely coastal walk links the two towns.
  7. Gernika – the town bombed in 1937, with a peace museum and the symbolic Tree of Gernika.
  8. Rioja Alavesa – wineries and medieval villages such as Laguardia, about 1h30 from Bilbao.

In pintxos bars, order one or two pintxos and a small drink, then move on. Ask for the hot dishes cooked to order, often listed on a board, rather than just what's on the counter.

Best time to visit

SeasonWeatherNotes
March-MayAbout 15-20 °C, showeryGreen and quiet
June-SeptemberAbout 22-27 °CBeach season; August is busiest and priciest
October-NovemberMild, more rainGood for food and walks; quieter after the September film festival
December-FebruaryCool, about 12 °C, wetCity breaks and cosy pintxos bars

Getting there

Bilbao airport (BIO) has direct flights from London and some other UK airports, taking about 2 hours from London. San Sebastián airport (EAS) is mainly for domestic flights, while Biarritz airport (BIQ), just over the border in France and about 45 minutes from San Sebastián, has UK routes. From Bilbao airport, direct buses run to San Sebastián in about 1h15-1h30, and the airport bus reaches central Bilbao in about 20 minutes. Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth to Bilbao (and to Santander, about an hour west), taking roughly 24-32 hours.

Getting around

Buses link Bilbao, San Sebastián and Vitoria-Gasteiz frequently and quickly. The Euskotren railway runs along the coast and between Bilbao and San Sebastián, but it's slow. Bilbao has an efficient metro and tram. A car is handy for the coast, villages and Rioja, though parking in San Sebastián is expensive.

Top attractions in Basque Country

Basque Country on the map

Frequently asked questions

Bilbao or San Sebastián: which is better to stay in?

San Sebastián is better for beaches and food; Bilbao is cheaper and has the Guggenheim. They're only about 1h15 apart, so many people split their stay.

Does it rain a lot in the Basque Country?

Yes, it's one of the wettest parts of Spain, which is why it's so green. Summer is the driest and warmest time, but pack a light waterproof whenever you go.

Do people speak Basque or Spanish?

Both. Everyone speaks Spanish, and Basque is widely spoken and used on signs. A few words such as kaixo (hello) and eskerrik asko (thank you) are appreciated.

Can I combine the Basque Country with other places?

Easily. Santander, the Rioja wine region and south-west France are all within easy driving distance, and a longer road trip west can take in Asturias and Galicia.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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