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United Kingdom · Coast guide

Pembrokeshire holiday guide: beaches, St Davids, Tenby & the coast path

Tenby Harbour
Photo: Dylan Moore, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Tenby and St Davids make the best bases
  • Skomer boat trips run roughly April to September and sell out, so book early
  • The Pembrokeshire Coast Path is 186 miles, walked in day sections
  • Coastal shuttle buses link walk start points in summer
Airports
Cardiff (CWL), Bristol (BRS)
Best time to go
May-September; May to July for puffins on Skomer
Type
Coast

Pembrokeshire is the far south-west corner of Wales, and much of its coastline is protected as the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. Expect sandy bays backed by dunes, dramatic cliffs and sea arches, offshore islands teeming with seabirds and seals, and a string of characterful towns, from colourful, walled Tenby to St Davids, the smallest city in the UK. It's further to reach than many seaside destinations, but that keeps it wonderfully unspoilt.

For more of the country, see our Wales guide and the United Kingdom guide, including Cornwall for another wild coast.

Where to stay

  • Tenby – pastel houses, medieval walls and three sandy beaches; the liveliest base, with a railway station.
  • St Davids – a tiny cathedral city near Whitesands Bay, ideal for boat trips and the north coast.
  • Saundersfoot – a smaller resort next to Tenby with a sandy harbour beach.
  • Newport and Fishguard – quieter north Pembrokeshire, close to the Preseli Hills.
  • Little Haven and Broad Haven – small villages on St Brides Bay, handy for Skomer boat trips.

Things to do

  1. Skomer Island – puffins nest from about April to July; boats leave Martin's Haven when the weather allows.
  2. Barafundle Bay – a sandy cove reached on foot from Stackpole, often called one of Britain's best beaches.
  3. St Davids Cathedral and Bishop's Palace – a medieval cathedral in a hollow, with the ruined palace beside it.
  4. Pembrokeshire Coast Path – 186 miles from Amroth to St Dogmaels; the sections around St Davids Head and Stackpole are highlights.
  5. Coasteering at Abereiddi – scramble and jump into the Blue Lagoon, a flooded slate quarry, with a guide.
  6. St Govan's Chapel and Green Bridge of Wales – a tiny chapel in the cliffs and a huge sea arch; check access, as they lie near a military range.
  7. Pembroke Castle – a mighty castle and the birthplace of Henry VII.
  8. Caldey Island – a boat trip from Tenby to a monastery island.

Best time to visit

SeasonWhat to expect
Spring (April-May)Wildflowers on the cliffs, puffins arriving, quieter beaches
Summer (June-August)Warmest and busiest, best for beaches and boat trips
Autumn (September-October)Seal pups from late summer, warm seas and fewer crowds
Winter (November-March)Wild, wet and quiet, with many boat trips stopped

Getting there

GWR trains run from London Paddington to Swansea in about 3h, where Transport for Wales trains continue to Tenby, Pembroke Dock, Haverfordwest, Milford Haven and Fishguard; Tenby is about 5h from London in total, and a few through trains run. By car, Tenby is about 4h30-5h from London via the M4 and A477, and about 3h from Bristol. Ferries from Fishguard and Pembroke Dock sail to Rosslare in Ireland, so Pembrokeshire combines well with a trip across the Irish Sea.

Getting around

A car is easiest, as distances between villages and beaches add up, though lanes are narrow and some car parks are small. In summer, the Puffin Shuttle, Strumble Shuttle, Celtic Coaster and Poppit Rocket buses link villages and coast path start points, which makes linear walks easy. Trains reach Tenby, Pembroke, Haverfordwest and Fishguard.

Skomer landings depend on sea conditions and visitor numbers are capped, so book online ahead and keep a spare day in your plans.

Frequently asked questions

When can you see puffins in Pembrokeshire?

From about April to late July, when they nest on Skomer and Skokholm. Late May to July is often the best time to see them with fish in their beaks.

Is Pembrokeshire good for families?

Very. Tenby and Saundersfoot have safe sandy beaches, and there are castles, boat trips, rock pooling and theme parks such as Folly Farm and Oakwood.

Do you need a car in Pembrokeshire?

It helps, but you can manage using trains to Tenby and the summer coastal buses, especially if you plan linear walks.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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