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Germany · Region guide

Black Forest holiday guide: best towns, walks, Triberg Falls & where to stay

Forested hills of the Black Forest from the Hohfelsen viewpoint
Photo: MWolf89, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Freiburg and Baden-Baden bracket the forest and make easy bases
  • Triberg, Titisee and the Feldberg are the classic sights in the central and southern forest
  • Many hotels give guests a card for free local buses and trains
  • Driving the Black Forest High Road is a highlight in autumn
Airports
Basel-Mulhouse (BSL), Stuttgart (STR), Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden (FKB), Zurich (ZRH)
Best time to go
May-October for walking; December-March for snow on the higher hills
Type
Region

The Black Forest (Schwarzwald) is a long range of wooded hills in the far south-west of Germany, running roughly 160km from near Karlsruhe to the Swiss border, with the Rhine and France to the west. It is the Germany of cuckoo clocks, cherry gâteau and farmhouses with huge sloping roofs, but also a serious walking and cycling region with deep valleys, lakes and long-distance trails.

It is part of Baden-Württemberg and pairs naturally with Freiburg, Baden-Baden and Lake Constance. For the wider country, see our Germany guide.

Things to do

  1. Triberg Waterfalls – among Germany's highest falls, tumbling through forest in a series of cascades. The town is also the home of giant cuckoo clocks.
  2. Titisee and Schluchsee – lakes in the southern forest for swimming, pedal boats and lakeside walks.
  3. The Feldberg – at roughly 1,490m, the highest peak in the Black Forest, with sweeping views towards the Alps on clear days and skiing in winter.
  4. The Black Forest High Road – the B500 between Baden-Baden and Freudenstadt runs along the ridge past viewpoints and the Mummelsee lake.
  5. Black Forest Open-Air Museum – the Vogtsbauernhof in Gutach brings together historic farmhouses and traditional crafts.
  6. Gengenbach and Schiltach – two of the prettiest half-timbered towns, in the Kinzig valley.
  7. Freiburg – the sunny "capital" of the southern Black Forest. See our Freiburg guide.
  8. Baden-Baden – spa baths and elegant parks at the northern edge. Read our Baden-Baden guide.

For walkers, the Westweg runs the length of the forest from Pforzheim to Basel, and the Black Forest National Park protects wild high moors in the north.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
FreiburgLively city with trains into the southern forest
Baden-BadenSpas, culture and the northern Black Forest High Road
Titisee or HinterzartenLakes, the Feldberg and winter sports
TribergCentral forest, waterfalls and the Black Forest Railway
GengenbachPretty town in the Kinzig valley with good rail links

Getting there

Basel-Mulhouse airport, on the French side of Basel, is the closest for the southern forest; Freiburg is around 45 minutes away by road. Stuttgart and Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden airports suit the north. Zurich is another option for the south-east. Check current routes from your nearest UK airport.

By rail, take Eurostar to Paris, then a high-speed train to Strasbourg or Karlsruhe and connect to Offenburg or Freiburg. The scenic Black Forest Railway climbs from Offenburg through dozens of tunnels to Triberg.

Best time to visit

May to October is best for walking, with lush green valleys in early summer and golden colours in October. Summer weekends at Titisee and Triberg can be busy. From December to March the higher areas around the Feldberg usually have snow for skiing and winter walking.

Ask your hotel about the KONUS guest card, which gives free use of buses and regional trains across much of the Black Forest during your stay.

Top attractions in Black Forest

Black Forest on the map

Frequently asked questions

Where is the best base for the Black Forest?

Freiburg for the south and city comforts, Baden-Baden for the north and spas, or a smaller town like Titisee or Triberg if you want to wake up in the forest itself.

Do I need a car in the Black Forest?

It helps for the high roads and remote villages, but trains and buses cover the main towns, and the KONUS card makes them free for many visitors.

What is the Black Forest famous for?

Cuckoo clocks, Black Forest gâteau (Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte), smoked ham, traditional costume with pom-pom hats, and great walking.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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