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Turkey · Province guide

Afyonkarahisar travel guide: thermal spas, the castle rock and the Phrygian Valley

The castle rock above Afyonkarahisar
Photo: Ingeborg Simon, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Large thermal spa resorts make it a winter break favourite with Turks
  • A castle sits on a sheer volcanic rock above the city
  • The Phrygian Valley has rock-cut tombs and churches
  • Famous for kaymak clotted cream, sucuk and lokum
Airports
Zafer (KZR) via Istanbul, or Antalya (AYT) about four hours by road
Best time to go
April-June and September-October; winter for spas
Type
Province

Afyonkarahisar, usually just called Afyon, sits at a crossroads on the western Anatolian plateau. Its name means "black castle of opium", after the opium poppies once grown here for medicine and the black volcanic rock that rises right out of the city centre. It belongs to the Aegean region.

Turks know it for thermal spa hotels, rich food and its place in the War of Independence, as the Great Offensive of 1922 was launched near here. For UK travellers it is a good stop between the coast and Central Anatolia. See our Turkey guide for practical advice.

Things to do

  1. Afyon castle – climb the long staircase up the rock for wide views over the city and plain.
  2. Thermal spas – the area has many large spa hotels with pools fed by hot springs, popular in winter.
  3. Phrygian Valley – rock-cut tombs, cave churches and fairy-chimney-like formations, especially around Ayazini.
  4. Old town – Ottoman houses, the wooden-columned Grand Mosque and a Mevlevi lodge below the castle.
  5. Kocatepe – the hill from which Atatürk directed the start of the 1922 Great Offensive, with a memorial.
  6. Local food – try kaymak (clotted cream) with honey, sucuk sausage and Turkish delight.
  7. Archaeology Museum – finds from Phrygian, Roman and Byzantine sites across the province.

Where to stay

  • Thermal resorts – spa hotels outside the city, often with full board and treatment packages.
  • City centre – smaller hotels close to the castle and old quarter.

Getting there

There are no direct UK flights. Fly to Istanbul and connect to Zafer airport, or fly to Antalya and drive roughly four hours north. Afyon is on the main road network between Istanbul, İzmir, Antalya and Konya, so it is easy to reach by long-distance bus. A car is best for the Phrygian Valley. It also combines well with Kütahya and Uşak.

Best time to visit

Spring and autumn are best for sightseeing. Winter brings cold, sometimes snowy weather, which is when the thermal hotels come into their own. Summer days are hot and dry.

the Phrygian Valley spreads across a wide area. Ayazini makes the easiest introduction from Afyon.

Top attractions in Afyonkarahisar

Afyonkarahisar on the map

Frequently asked questions

Is Afyon good for a spa break?

Yes. It has one of the biggest concentrations of thermal spa hotels in Turkey.

What should I eat in Afyon?

Kaymak with honey for breakfast, sucuk, and lokum, all of which the city is known for.

How far is Afyon from Pamukkale?

Roughly three hours by road, which makes it a handy stop on a tour between Pamukkale and Konya or Cappadocia.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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