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Turkey · Province guide

Bitlis travel guide: Ahlat's Seljuk tombstones, Nemrut crater lake and Lake Van

Satellite view of the Nemrut crater lake above Tatvan
Photo: NASA, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Ahlat has one of the largest Islamic cemeteries in Anatolia
  • Nemrut's crater holds a large freshwater lake
  • Bitlis town is packed into a narrow gorge
  • The Nemrut road is usually snowbound in winter
Airports
Muş (MSR) or Van (VAN), via Istanbul
Best time to go
June-September
Type
Province

Bitlis province wraps around the western end of Lake Van, in Eastern Anatolia. It holds some of the region's most striking scenery: a huge volcanic crater above Tatvan, Mount Süphan rising over the northern shore, and the lakeside town of Ahlat with its fields of carved Seljuk tombstones.

The provincial capital, also Bitlis, squeezes into a steep river gorge, its stone houses and Ottoman bridges stacked along the valley. Most visitors combine the province with Van. For entry rules and the basics, see our Turkey guide.

Things to do

  1. Ahlat Seljuk cemetery – a vast field of tall, intricately carved tombstones by the lake, dating mostly from the 12th to 15th centuries.
  2. Ahlat's kümbets – conical tombs such as the Ulu Kümbet and Emir Bayındır Kümbeti nearby.
  3. Nemrut crater lake – the caldera of the Nemrut volcano above Tatvan, holding a large freshwater lake and smaller warm pools.
  4. Bitlis town – the castle on its rock, old stone houses, the Şerefiye Mosque and arched bridges over the stream.
  5. Mount Süphan – Turkey's third highest peak at around 4,000 metres, climbed in summer from Adilcevaz.
  6. El-Aman Caravanserai – a restored Ottoman inn on the road south of Bitlis.
  7. Büryan kebab – lamb slow-cooked in a pit oven, a local speciality.

Where to stay

  • Tatvan – the most practical base, close to Nemrut and on the train and ferry routes.
  • Ahlat – simple hotels by the lake.
  • Van – more choice, on the opposite shore.

Getting there

Fly from the UK to Istanbul (about four hours), then connect to Muş or Van. Tatvan is at the end of the railway line from Ankara, and a train ferry crosses the lake to Van. A car makes it far easier to reach Nemrut and Ahlat.

Best time to visit

June to September is the season. The road up to the Nemrut crater is usually closed by snow from late autumn to late spring. Winters around the lake are cold and snowy.

Don't confuse this Nemrut with Mount Nemrut in Adıyaman, famous for its stone heads. They are hundreds of kilometres apart. See our Adıyaman guide.

Top attractions in Bitlis

Bitlis on the map

Frequently asked questions

Can I swim in the Nemrut crater lake?

Some people swim in summer, but there are no facilities, the water is cold and the shore can be rough. Take care.

How long do I need at Ahlat?

Allow two or three hours for the cemetery and the tombs nearby.

Is Bitlis town worth visiting?

Yes, for an hour or two. Its gorge setting and old stone buildings are unlike anywhere else on the lake.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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