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Caribbean · Country guide

Saba Holidays: Diving, Mount Scenery Hikes & Getting There from the UK

A street in Windwardside, Saba
Photo: Carl Pruneau, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • A special municipality of the Netherlands only around 13 square kilometres in size
  • Mount Scenery, at about 887 metres, is the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands
  • The Saba Marine Park offers pristine pinnacle dives
  • Reach it by short flight onto one of the world's shortest commercial runways, or by ferry from Sint Maarten
Airports
Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport (SAB), about 15 minutes' flight from Sint Maarten (SXM); ferries from Sint Maarten take around 1-1.5 hours
Flight time
about 10-12h from London with connections via Sint Maarten
Best time to go
December-April for drier weather; April-June and November for calm diving and fewer visitors
Currency
US dollar (US$)

Saba rises sheer out of the Caribbean Sea, a dormant volcano covered in cloud forest and dotted with white cottages with green shutters and red roofs. With fewer than 2,000 residents, a single road and no real beaches, it attracts a particular kind of traveller: divers who want untouched reefs, hikers who want a challenge and anyone looking for a peaceful, safe and genuinely friendly place to switch off. Saba calls itself "the Unspoiled Queen", and it lives up to the name.

Since 2010 Saba has been a special municipality of the Netherlands, but English is the everyday language and the US dollar is the currency. It is reached from Sint Maarten and pairs well with nearby Sint Eustatius. For the other Dutch Caribbean islands, see Bonaire and Curaçao.

Things to do

  1. Dive the Saba Marine Park – established in 1987, the park rings the whole island. Its best-known dives are pinnacles that rise from deep water, such as Third Encounter and Diamond Rock, with sharks, turtles, rays and big schools of fish. There are also gentler shallow sites and good snorkelling at Well's Bay and Torrens Point.
  2. Climb Mount Scenery – about 1,064 steps lead from Windwardside through tropical forest to the summit at around 887 metres, the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Allow three to four hours return, and set off early for the best chance of clear views.
  3. Walk the trail network – the Saba Conservation Foundation maintains around 20 trails, from the coastal Sandy Cruz Trail to the old Ladder, a steep stairway that once served as the island's main supply route from the sea.
  4. Drive "The Road" – built by hand between the 1930s and the 1950s after engineers said it could not be done, it zigzags from the airport through Hell's Gate, Windwardside and St John's to The Bottom and Fort Bay.
  5. Village life – browse galleries and shops in Windwardside, visit the Harry L. Johnson Museum in a former sea captain's house, and look for traditional Saba lace, a craft brought back from Venezuela in the 19th century.
  6. Wildlife – look for red-billed tropicbirds along the cliffs, iguanas, hummingbirds and, between winter and spring, humpback whales offshore.

Where to stay

  • Windwardside – the island's tourist hub, with small hotels, cottages, dive shops, restaurants and trailheads.
  • The Bottom – the capital, quieter and more local, close to the harbour at Fort Bay.
  • Hillside eco-lodges – a few lodges and cottages sit in the rainforest near Windwardside and offer an off-grid, nature-focused stay.

Accommodation is small-scale and limited, so book well ahead, particularly if you want to combine it with a dive package.

Getting there

There are no direct flights from the UK. First fly to Princess Juliana Airport (SXM) on Sint Maarten, usually with KLM via Amsterdam, Air France via Paris, or via the US; the total journey is typically 10 to 12 hours plus connections. From there, Winair flies to Saba in about 15 minutes. Landing on the roughly 400-metre runway, perched between cliffs, is an experience in itself. Ferries from Sint Maarten to Fort Bay take around 1 to 1.5 hours, and the crossing can be rough in winter swells.

British passport holders can usually visit without a visa for short stays, but you need a passport valid for your stay and may be asked for proof of onward travel. Taxis meet every flight and ferry, and hitchhiking is a long-standing, accepted local practice.

Best time to visit

Saba is pleasant all year, with temperatures in the high 20s °C on the coast and cooler air in the hills. December to April is drier and busiest. April to June and November often bring calm seas and excellent diving visibility. The hurricane season runs from June to November, peaking from August to October.

Small planes have strict baggage limits, often around 20 kilograms in the hold, so if you bring your own dive gear, check allowances before you book or plan to rent locally.

Frequently asked questions

Does Saba have beaches?

Not really. There is no permanent sandy beach; a small seasonal beach occasionally appears at Well's Bay. People come for the diving, snorkelling and hiking instead.

Is Saba good for beginner divers?

Yes. Several operators offer courses and shallow reef dives, though the famous pinnacles are deeper and better suited to experienced divers.

How long should I stay on Saba?

Four to seven days lets you dive, hike Mount Scenery and enjoy the villages without rushing. Many visitors combine it with a few days on Sint Maarten or Sint Eustatius.

What currency is used on Saba?

The US dollar. Cards are accepted in most hotels and restaurants, but carry some cash for taxis and small shops.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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