seekholidays.co.uk See deals
Turkey · Region guide

Eastern Anatolia travel guide: Kars and Ani, Lake Van, Mount Ararat and Erzurum

Mount Ararat rising above the Yerevan skyline in spring
Photo: Սէրուժ Ուրիշեան (Serouj Ourishian), CC BY 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Turkey's highest and coldest region, with Mount Ararat at 5,137 metres
  • Kars and the ruined city of Ani make the best first stop
  • Lake Van and Akdamar Island are the other big draw
  • Check FCDO advice for border areas before you plan a route
Airports
Erzurum (ERZ), Kars (KSY) and Van (VAN), via Istanbul or Ankara
Best time to go
June-September; December-March for skiing
Type
Region

Eastern Anatolia is Turkey's largest geographical region and its highest, a sweep of mountains and high plateaus between Central Anatolia and the borders with Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan's Nakhchivan exclave and Iran. Its fourteen provinces hold Mount Ararat, Turkey's highest peak, and Lake Van, its biggest lake, along with the sources of the Euphrates and the Tigris.

It is a long way from the resorts, and few UK visitors make it here. Those who do find medieval Armenian churches, Seljuk tombs, Russian-era streets in Kars, superb breakfasts in Van and landscapes on an enormous scale. For entry rules and the basics, see our Turkey guide.

Things to do

  1. Ani – the ruined medieval capital of an Armenian kingdom on a plateau near Kars, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with churches standing alone on the grassland above a gorge.
  2. Kars – Russian-built stone streets, a castle, local cheese and honey, and the Doğu Express sleeper train from Ankara.
  3. Akdamar Island – a boat ride on Lake Van to the tenth-century Armenian Church of the Holy Cross, known for its carved exterior.
  4. Van – its castle on a rock above the lake, and the city's famous long breakfasts.
  5. İshak Paşa Palace – an Ottoman palace on a hillside above Doğubayazıt, with views towards Mount Ararat.
  6. Mount Ararat – the classic climb takes several days in summer and requires a permit arranged through a licensed operator.
  7. Erzurum – the Double Minaret Madrasa and other Seljuk buildings in town, and skiing at Palandöken in winter.
  8. Ahlat and Nemrut crater – a vast Seljuk cemetery on the shores of Lake Van and a volcanic crater lake above Tatvan.

Provinces in Eastern Anatolia

  • Ağrı – Mount Ararat and İshak Paşa Palace
  • Ardahan – Lake Çıldır, which freezes in winter
  • Bingöl – lakes and highland pastures
  • Bitlis – Ahlat and the Nemrut crater lake
  • Elazığ – the old hilltop town of Harput and Lake Hazar
  • Erzincan – Kemaliye and the Dark Canyon of the Euphrates
  • Erzurum – Seljuk monuments and Palandöken
  • Hakkâri – the Cilo mountains, on the Iraqi and Iranian borders
  • Iğdır – a low plain below Ararat, bordering three countries
  • Kars – Ani and Russian-era architecture
  • Malatya – apricots and the ancient mound of Arslantepe
  • Muş – a highland plain west of Lake Van
  • Tunceli – the Munzur Valley National Park
  • Van – Lake Van, Akdamar and Van castle

Where to stay

  • Kars – the best base for Ani and the start or end point of the Doğu Express.
  • Van – lakeside and city-centre hotels, handy for Akdamar.
  • Doğubayazıt – simple hotels with views of Ararat.
  • Erzurum and Palandöken – city hotels and ski hotels on the mountain.

Getting there

There are no direct flights from the UK. Fly to Istanbul (about four hours), then connect to Erzurum, Kars or Van on a domestic flight of roughly two hours. The Doğu Express from Ankara to Kars takes over a day, and is popular in winter for the snowy scenery, so book well ahead. Distances are long and public transport thin, so a car or a guided tour makes sense for getting between sights.

Check the latest FCDO travel advice before planning a route. It has for some time advised against travel close to the Syrian border and against all but essential travel to Hakkâri and Şırnak provinces, and this affects insurance.

Best time to visit

June to September brings warm days and the best conditions for Ani, Lake Van and climbing Ararat, though nights stay cool at altitude. Winters are long and severe, with temperatures well below freezing, which is great for skiing at Palandöken and a snowy train journey, but makes touring harder.

Combine Kars with the Doğu Express in one direction and a flight in the other.

Top attractions in Eastern Anatolia

Eastern Anatolia on the map

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a permit to climb Mount Ararat?

Yes. Climbs must be arranged through a licensed Turkish operator, who organises the permit. Allow plenty of time for the paperwork.

Is Eastern Anatolia safe to visit?

Kars, Erzurum and Van are visited by tourists every year, but FCDO advice for some border areas is strict. Read the latest guidance and make sure your insurance covers your route.

How cold does it get in winter?

Very cold. Kars and Erzurum regularly drop to well below minus ten degrees at night in mid-winter.

How long is the Doğu Express?

The regular service from Ankara to Kars takes a little over a day, and the tourist version with sightseeing stops takes longer. Check current timetables, as services and the separate tourist train can change.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

More from Anna

We research every guide carefully, but prices, opening times and timetables change. Check them shortly before you travel. Links to our booking partners are affiliate links.