- Isernia's museum tells the story of a site used by early humans hundreds of thousands of years ago
- Pietrabbondante's Samnite theatre has superb mountain views
- Agnone is home to one of the world's oldest bell foundries
- Naples airport is roughly 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours away
- Airports
- Naples (NAP), Rome Fiumicino (FCO), Pescara (PSR)
- Best time to go
- May-June and September; December for Christmas traditions
- Type
- Province
Isernia is the smaller of Molise's two provinces, covering the mountainous west of the region. The town of Isernia has ancient roots: excavations at La Pineta on its outskirts revealed one of the oldest known sites of human activity in Europe. Its old centre has a medieval fountain and a cathedral on the site of a Roman temple.
The rest of the province is high, green country, the Alto Molise, with Samnite sanctuaries, castles, villages that see deep winter snow and a proud tradition of crafts, especially bell-making in Agnone. See our Italy guide for more.
Things to do
- Museo Nazionale del Paleolitico – the museum at La Pineta, where you can see the excavated prehistoric site.
- Fontana Fraterna – a medieval stone fountain in Isernia's old town.
- Pietrabbondante – a Samnite theatre and temple on a mountainside, one of the most evocative ancient sites in southern Italy.
- Agnone – a historic bell foundry with a museum, and the Ndocciata, a fire procession with giant torches on Christmas Eve.
- San Vincenzo al Volturno – the excavated remains of a major early medieval abbey near Castel San Vincenzo, beside a lake.
- Venafro – a Roman theatre, olive groves and the Castello Pandone, decorated with life-size frescoes of horses.
- Capracotta – one of the highest villages in the Apennines, known for record snowfalls and cross-country skiing.
- The Mainarde – the Molise side of the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park.
Where to stay
| Area | Why stay there |
|---|---|
| Isernia | A practical base with rail links |
| Agnone | Historic mountain town and crafts |
| Castel San Vincenzo | Lakeside calm and the abbey ruins |
| Venafro | Olive country, close to Campania |
Getting there
There is no airport in Molise. Naples airport is roughly 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours by car, Rome around 2 hours 30 minutes and Pescara roughly 2 hours. Trains from Rome and Naples to Isernia usually involve a change. A car is essential for the mountain villages.
Best time to visit
Late spring and early autumn are best for walking and visiting the ancient sites. Summer is pleasantly cool in the mountains. December brings Agnone's Ndocciata, while the mountain villages can be snowbound in winter.
Pair Pietrabbondante with Agnone on the same day; the two are a short drive apart.
Top attractions in Isernia
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Isernia on the map
Frequently asked questions
Is Isernia worth visiting?
For travellers interested in archaeology, mountain scenery and traditional crafts, yes. It is one of the least touristy parts of Italy.
What is the Ndocciata?
A Christmas Eve procession in Agnone, in which people carry huge torches made of fir wood through the town.
Can you visit the bell foundry in Agnone?
Yes. The historic foundry has a museum and usually offers guided visits.
Written by
Emma City breaks & deals editor
Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.
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