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Turkey · Province guide

Artvin travel guide: Çoruh valley, Karagöl, Macahel and Georgian churches

Artvin town on the slopes above the Çoruh River
Photo: Cagriaksu25, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Deep gorges carved by the Çoruh River
  • Karagöl-Sahara National Park and Macahel have lakes and old forests
  • Medieval Georgian churches such as İşhan and Dolishane
  • Borders Georgia at Sarp, near Batumi
Airports
Rize-Artvin (RZV) or Trabzon (TZX) via Istanbul; Batumi (BUS) in Georgia is also close to the coast
Best time to go
June-September
Type
Province

Artvin is the north-easternmost province of Turkey's Black Sea coast, where the land turns into steep mountains and deep canyons along the Çoruh River. It borders Georgia, and much of it was part of medieval Georgian kingdoms, which left a scattering of stone churches in remote villages. The provincial capital clings to a slope high above the river.

It is wild, scenic and little visited, ideal for UK travellers who like walking, nature and history off the beaten track. Artvin belongs to the Black Sea region, next to Rize. See our Turkey guide for planning tips.

Things to do

  1. Çoruh valley – dramatic gorges along one of Turkey's fastest rivers, though several large dams have changed parts of it in recent years.
  2. Karagöl-Sahara National Park – near Şavşat, with Karagöl, a forest lake surrounded by spruce, and high pastures.
  3. Macahel (Camili) – a remote valley on the Georgian border that is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, known for its forests and native Caucasian honeybees.
  4. İşhan church – a large medieval Georgian church in a village near Yusufeli.
  5. Dolishane and Tbeti – more Georgian church remains in the hills, rewarding for those with a car and patience.
  6. Kafkasör plateau – a summer pasture above Artvin town, known for its annual festival with traditional bull wrestling.
  7. Kaçkar treks from the south – villages such as Yaylalar on the Yusufeli side are trailheads into the Kaçkar Mountains.
  8. Hopa and the coast – a short coastline with tea gardens, leading to the Sarp border crossing.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
ŞavşatWooden guesthouses near Karagöl and the Georgian church sites
Artvin townSmall hotels, central for the Çoruh valley
Kaçkar villagesMountain pensions for trekkers on the southern side
HopaCoastal stopover near the Georgian border

Getting there

There are no direct UK flights. Fly to Istanbul and connect to Rize-Artvin Airport (RZV); from there it is roughly two hours to Artvin town by road. Trabzon (TZX) has more flights but is about four hours away. Some travellers fly into Batumi in Georgia and cross at Sarp, about half an hour from Batumi. A car is essential to explore the valleys.

Best time to visit

June to September is the season for the plateaus, lakes and trekking. Autumn colours around Şavşat and Macahel can be superb in October. Many mountain roads are difficult or closed in winter.

Road layouts around Yusufeli have changed after a major dam project, so use an up-to-date map and ask locally about routes.

Top attractions in Artvin

Artvin on the map

Frequently asked questions

Can you cross from Artvin into Georgia?

Yes, at the Sarp border crossing on the coast, which leads directly towards Batumi. Check current entry requirements before travelling.

Is Artvin good for hiking?

Very. The Kaçkar Mountains, Karagöl-Sahara National Park and Macahel all offer excellent walking.

Are the Georgian churches easy to visit?

Some, such as İşhan, are reached by road; others need a long drive on rough tracks. Hiring a local guide helps.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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