Iraq Travel Guide: Kurdistan, Babylon, Baghdad and FCDO Travel Advice

T By Thomas · Updated 21 October 2026 · 3 min read

Airports

Baghdad International (BGW); Erbil International (EBL); Sulaymaniyah (ISU); Basra (BSR)

Flight time

no direct flights; usually 7-10h from London with one stop

Best time to go

March-May and October-November

Currency

Iraqi dinar (IQD)

Iraq is the land between the Tigris and Euphrates, ancient Mesopotamia, where writing, cities and the first law codes were born. Its heritage runs from Sumerian Ur and the walls of Babylon to the Abbasid glories of Baghdad and the golden-domed shrines of Najaf and Karbala. In the north, the Kurdistan Region has its own government, language and mountain landscapes, and has for years been the most visited part of the country.

Important: the FCDO advises against all travel to Kirkuk, Ninawa and Salah al-Din provinces, most of Diyala, the parts of Anbar west of Ramadi, Sadr City in Baghdad, and areas within 5 km of the borders with Iran, Saudi Arabia and Kuwait. It advises against all but essential travel to the rest of Iraq, including the Kurdistan Region. Regional tensions involving Iran add a risk of attacks and flight disruption. Consular support is severely limited and insurance may be invalidated. Read the GOV.UK foreign travel advice for Iraq before planning. For the wider region, see our Middle East guide.

Iraq is three hours ahead of the UK in winter and two hours ahead in British Summer Time. Plugs are mainly types C, D and G, and traffic drives on the right.

Why go (when it is safe)

• Erbil: the Citadel, a UNESCO site and one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements in the world, above a lively bazaar.
• Kurdish mountains: the Rawanduz gorge, Gali Ali Beg waterfall and the hilltop town of Amadiya.
• Sulaymaniyah: the Kurdistan Region's cultural capital and the sobering Amna Suraka museum.
• Babylon: the reconstructed palaces and Ishtar Gate foundations, now a UNESCO site.
• Ur: the great Ziggurat near Nasiriyah, nearly 4,000 years old.
• The Mesopotamian Marshes: UNESCO-listed wetlands where Marsh Arab communities live in reed houses.
• Baghdad: Al-Mutanabbi Street's book market, the Iraq Museum and riverside cafés on the Tigris.
• Najaf and Karbala: major Shia pilgrimage cities visited by millions each year.

Where to stay

• Erbil (Ainkawa and the centre): international hotels, restaurants and the easiest base in the north.
• Sulaymaniyah: hotels near the bazaar and green hills.
• Baghdad (Karrada, Jadriya): business hotels, usually booked with security support.
• Basra: hotels for the marshes and Ur, within FCDO warning areas.

Getting there

There are no direct flights from the UK. Connect via Istanbul, Doha, Dubai, Amman or Frankfurt to Erbil, Sulaymaniyah, Baghdad or Basra. British passport holders can apply for an Iraqi eVisa, and the Kurdistan Region has historically issued its own entry stamps on arrival at Erbil and Sulaymaniyah; check current rules, as they have changed several times. Overland travel between regions involves checkpoints.

Good to know

• Culture: Iraqi hospitality is generous, with tea offered almost everywhere; Friday is the main day off.
• Food: masgouf (grilled river carp), dolma, kubba and kahi pastries with cream and date syrup.
• Dress and customs: dress modestly, particularly in religious cities, where women are expected to wear an abaya at the shrines.
• Money: Iraq is largely a cash economy; US dollars are widely exchanged and cards are only accepted in major hotels.
• Checkpoints: carry your passport and visa at all times, as you will pass through many security checkpoints.

Best time to visit

Spring (March to May) and autumn (October and November) are the most comfortable. Summers are brutally hot in Baghdad and Basra, often above 45°C, while the Kurdish mountains stay cooler. Winters are mild in the south and cold, sometimes snowy, in the north.

We research every guide carefully, but prices, opening times and timetables change. Check them shortly before you travel. Links to our booking partners are affiliate links.