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Spain · Region guide

Cantabria travel guide: Santander, Altamira, beaches & the Picos

The Magdalena Palace on its headland in Santander
Photo: Noreenlam, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Cantabria is a single-province region with Santander as its capital
  • Brittany Ferries sails from Portsmouth and Plymouth straight into Santander
  • Altamira's cave art is seen through a faithful replica beside the original
  • The Fuente Dé cable car is the easiest way into the Picos de Europa
Airports
Santander (SDR) or Bilbao (BIO)
Best time to go
June and September
Type
Region

For many British drivers, Cantabria is the first taste of Spain: the ferry docks right in Santander, and within an hour you can be in a medieval village, on a surfing beach or heading into the mountains. It is a compact, green region squeezed between the Basque Country and Asturias, with a coast of wide sandy bays and a mountainous interior.

Cantabria is ideal for a first road trip in northern Spain, a short city-and-beach break or a walking holiday in the Picos de Europa. The climate is mild and Atlantic, so it stays green and pleasantly warm rather than hot in summer. For more of the country, see our Spain guide.

The province and main bases

Cantabria is a single-province autonomous community. Its capital, Santander, is an elegant seaside city with beaches at El Sardinero and the Magdalena Palace on its headland. In the south-west the region shares the Picos de Europa with Asturias and Castile and León. Neighbouring regions include the Basque Country to the east and Asturias to the west.

Things to do in Cantabria

  1. Santillana del Mar – a beautifully preserved village of stone mansions and cobbled streets, best seen early or late in the day.
  2. Altamira – the museum next to the famous cave has a meticulous replica of its Palaeolithic bison paintings; access to the original cave is extremely limited.
  3. Comillas – a seaside town with Gaudí's colourful El Capricho villa and grand 19th-century buildings.
  4. Fuente Dé cable car – rises steeply to the top of the cliffs in the Picos, with walking routes from the upper station.
  5. Potes and the Liébana valley – a stone town on a river, close to the monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana.
  6. Cabárceno Nature Park – a former open-cast mine turned into a large wildlife park where animals roam extensive enclosures.
  7. El Castillo caves – at Puente Viesgo, some of the oldest known cave art in Europe, visited on guided tours.
  8. Beaches and surfing – Somo, Liencres and Berria near Santoña are popular for surfing and long walks.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
SantanderHandy for the ferry, beaches, restaurants and day trips
Santillana del Mar or ComillasHistoric villages close to the coast and Altamira
PotesBase for the Picos de Europa and Liébana
San Vicente de la BarqueraFishing town between the coast and the mountains
Castro UrdialesEast coast, convenient for Bilbao

Getting there

Brittany Ferries runs from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander, a crossing that takes roughly a day or overnight depending on the route. Santander Airport (SDR) is close to the city, and some UK routes operate, so check current schedules. Bilbao Airport (BIO) has a wider choice and is about an hour's drive from Santander. A car is the best way to explore villages and the Picos.

Best time to visit

June and September are ideal, with warm days and fewer visitors. July and August are busy with Spanish holidaymakers, especially on the coast. Spring brings wildflowers in the mountains, while autumn colours in the Liébana valley are lovely in October. Showers are possible all year.

Arrive at the Fuente Dé cable car early in summer, as queues can be long by mid-morning.

Top attractions in Cantabria

Cantabria on the map

Frequently asked questions

Can I visit the real Altamira cave?

Access to the original cave is very restricted, with only a tiny number of visitors selected occasionally. The replica at the museum is excellent and is what most visitors see.

Is Cantabria good for families?

Yes. Beaches, Cabárceno Nature Park, caves and short mountain walks make it a relaxed family destination.

How long should I spend in Cantabria?

Four to seven days lets you combine Santander, Santillana del Mar, Comillas and a couple of days in the Picos.

Is Santander worth more than a stopover from the ferry?

Yes. Its beaches, seafront and food scene make it a good place to spend a night or two at the start or end of a trip.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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