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Italy · Province guide

Matera travel guide: the Sassi, cave hotels, things to do & getting there

The cave dwellings and churches of the Sassi di Matera
Photo: Bönisch, CC BY-SA 2.0 de via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • The Sassi are a UNESCO World Heritage Site of cave dwellings and rock churches
  • Stay overnight to see them lit up after dark
  • Bari airport is about an hour away by car
  • Wear good shoes, as the Sassi are all steps and slopes
Airports
Bari (BRI)
Best time to go
April-June and September-October
Type
Province

Matera, in Basilicata, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Its two cave districts, the Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, spill down the side of a ravine, a jumble of houses, churches and cisterns dug into the soft rock. In the 1950s the Sassi were a symbol of southern poverty and were largely evacuated. Since then they have been restored, listed by UNESCO in 1993 and, in 2019, Matera was a European Capital of Culture.

Film-makers love the place: it has stood in for ancient Jerusalem and featured in the opening of the James Bond film No Time to Die. The province also stretches south to the Ionian coast. See our Italy guide for more.

Things to do

  1. Walk the Sassi – lose yourself in the lanes and steps of both districts, then climb to the viewpoints for the classic panorama.
  2. Rock churches – such as Santa Maria de Idris on its rocky outcrop and Santa Lucia alle Malve with its frescoes.
  3. A cave house museum – see how families and their animals lived together in a single cave until the mid-20th century.
  4. Palombaro Lungo – a huge underground cistern beneath the main square.
  5. Matera Cathedral – a Romanesque cathedral on the ridge between the two Sassi.
  6. Murgia Materana Park – cross the ravine to walk among cave churches and get the best view back at the city, especially at sunset.
  7. MUSMA – a museum of contemporary sculpture set in caves and an old palazzo.
  8. Day trips – the ghost town of Craco, the Greek temple at Metaponto, Ionian beaches and Montescaglioso's abbey.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
Sasso CaveosoCave hotels with classic views, lots of steps
Sasso BarisanoLively, with more restaurants and bars
Piano (upper town)Easier access by car and luggage, near the Sassi
Countryside masserieQuiet stays with a pool, a short drive away

Getting there

Fly to Bari (BRI), about 65 km from Matera, roughly an hour by car. Shuttle buses also run between Bari airport and Matera; check times in advance. By rail, the Ferrovie Appulo Lucane line from Bari takes around an hour and a half. There is no Trenitalia mainline station. If driving, park outside the restricted traffic zone and walk or take a taxi into the Sassi.

Best time to visit

April to June and September to October are ideal, with comfortable temperatures for walking. July and August are hot, and the stone reflects the heat, so explore early and late. Winter is quiet and atmospheric, and around Christmas there are nativity events in the Sassi. The Festa della Bruna on 2 July is the city's biggest festival.

Visit the Sassi early in the morning before the coach tours arrive, and again after dark when the lights come on.

Top attractions in Matera

Matera on the map

Frequently asked questions

How long should I stay in Matera?

Two nights is ideal, giving you a full day in the Sassi, time for the Murgia park, and an evening to see the city lit up.

Can I do Matera as a day trip from Bari?

Yes, but staying overnight is far better: the Sassi are most magical early in the morning and at night.

Is Matera suitable for people with limited mobility?

It is challenging. The Sassi are full of steep steps and uneven paths, though the upper town and some viewpoints are more accessible.

Written by

Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor

Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.

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