- Soria is one of the least populated provinces in Spain, so expect empty roads and quiet villages
- San Juan de Duero has a remarkable cloister of interlacing arches
- Laguna Negra and the Río Lobos canyon are superb for walking
- A car is essential
- Airports
- Madrid-Barajas (MAD), Zaragoza (ZAZ) or Bilbao (BIO)
- Best time to go
- May-June and September-October
- Type
- Province
Soria is a small, calm city on the upper River Duero, best known in Spain for its Romanesque churches and its association with the poet Antonio Machado, who taught here and wrote about its landscapes. It sees very few international visitors, which is exactly why it appeals to travellers who have already done the big Spanish cities.
The province is among the least populated in the European Union, a high land of pine forests, canyons, glacial lakes and villages that seem frozen in time. In autumn it is famous for wild mushrooms. Soria is part of the Castile and León region; see our Spain guide for the rest of the country.
Things to do
- San Juan de Duero – a ruined monastery by the river whose cloister mixes Romanesque and Islamic-style interlaced arches, unlike anything else in Spain.
- Ermita de San Saturio – a Baroque hermitage built into the rock above the Duero, reached by a lovely riverside walk.
- Santo Domingo – a Romanesque church in the city centre with a richly carved west front.
- Numantia – the remains of the Celtiberian town that famously resisted Rome before falling in 133 BC, on a hill near Garray, just north of Soria.
- Laguna Negra – a dark glacial lake under granite cliffs in the Sierra de Urbión, surrounded by pine forest.
- Cañón del Río Lobos – a limestone canyon with a Templar-era hermitage, caves and vultures, good for easy walks.
- El Burgo de Osma and Calatañazor – El Burgo has a fine cathedral and arcaded streets, while Calatañazor is a tiny walled village on a crag.
- Medinaceli – a hilltop village with a Roman triumphal arch, in the south-east of the province.
Where to stay
| Area | Why stay there |
|---|---|
| Soria city | Compact centre with restaurants, Romanesque churches and riverside walks |
| El Burgo de Osma | Good base for the Río Lobos canyon and Calatañazor |
| Pinares (Covaleda, Vinuesa) | Forest villages near Laguna Negra and the Sierra de Urbión |
| Medinaceli | Atmospheric overnight stop on the way between Madrid and Zaragoza |
Getting there
There are no flights to Soria. Most UK visitors fly to Madrid and drive roughly 2 hours 30 minutes, or take a direct bus. Zaragoza and Bilbao are also roughly two to three hours away by road. Trains from Madrid are slow, so a car is by far the best way to reach Soria and essential for exploring the province.
Best time to visit
May, June and September are the best months for walking and sightseeing. Autumn brings mushroom season and wonderful forest colours, and many restaurants put wild mushrooms on the menu. Soria is high and continental, so winters are long and cold. The city's San Juan fiestas take place in late June and early July.
Look for mantequilla de Soria, the local butter with its own protected designation, and for lamb roasted in wood-fired ovens.
Top attractions in Soria
LandmarkAlhambra
A hilltop palace-fortress of carved stucco, tiled courtyards and water gardens, the Alhambra is the high point of…
LandmarkPark Güell
Gaudí's hillside park of mosaic benches, gingerbread-style lodges and a famous dragon, with sweeping views over…
MuseumPrado Museum
One of the world's great art museums, the Prado holds Spain's royal collection, from Velázquez's Las Meninas to Goya's…
LandmarkReal Alcázar
A dazzling Mudéjar palace and gardens in the heart of Seville, still used by the Spanish royal family and famous as the…
LandmarkSagrada Família
Gaudí's unfinished basilica, with its forest-like nave and glowing stained glass, is Barcelona's must-book sight.
NatureSerra de Tramuntana
A UNESCO-listed mountain range of stone villages, olive terraces and hairpin roads along Mallorca's north-west coast.
Soria on the map
Frequently asked questions
Is Soria worth visiting?
Yes, if you like history, walking and peace and quiet. It is one of the least touristy corners of Spain.
How long should I spend in Soria?
Two or three days covers the city, Numantia, Laguna Negra and the Río Lobos canyon.
Can I pick mushrooms in Soria?
Mushroom collecting is regulated in much of the province and usually requires a permit. Check the local rules before you go, or join a guided outing.
Who was Antonio Machado?
One of Spain's best-loved 20th-century poets. He taught in Soria, married here, and wrote many poems about the city and its countryside.
Written by
Anna Beach, family & practical travel editor
Anna knows which beach has shade at 3pm and which car hire excess is a rip-off. She covers sun, islands, family trips and practical travel tips.
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