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Italy · Province guide

Viterbo travel guide: city of popes, Civita di Bagnoregio & Etruscan tombs

The loggia of the Palazzo dei Papi in Viterbo
Photo: Claudio Caravano, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
TL;DR
  • Viterbo was a papal seat in the 13th century and has a superb medieval quarter
  • Thermal pools outside the city make a relaxing stop
  • Civita di Bagnoregio, Lake Bolsena and Tarquinia's tombs are all in the province
  • Trains from Rome take roughly 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours
Airports
Rome Fiumicino (FCO), Rome Ciampino (CIA)
Best time to go
April-June and September-October
Type
Province

Viterbo, in northern Lazio, was home to the popes for part of the 13th century, and the papal palace still stands above the city. Its medieval walls enclose the dark stone quarter of San Pellegrino, one of the best-preserved medieval districts in Italy, and natural hot springs bubble up just outside town.

The province, known as the Tuscia, borders Tuscany and Umbria. It includes Lake Bolsena and Lake Vico, the Etruscan necropolis of Tarquinia, Renaissance villas and gardens, and Civita di Bagnoregio. See our Italy guide for more.

Things to do

  1. Palazzo dei Papi – the papal palace with its Gothic loggia, scene of the longest papal election in history.
  2. San Pellegrino quarter – medieval houses with external staircases, towers and small squares.
  3. Thermal springs – hot sulphurous pools around the Bullicame area, some free and some in spa complexes.
  4. Civita di Bagnoregio – a village on an eroding hilltop, reached by a footbridge. There is an entry fee.
  5. Lake Bolsena – Europe's largest volcanic lake, with swimming beaches and the towns of Bolsena and Capodimonte.
  6. Tarquinia – Etruscan tombs with painted walls and an excellent archaeological museum.
  7. Villa Lante and Palazzo Farnese – Renaissance gardens at Bagnaia and a pentagonal palace at Caprarola.
  8. Bomarzo's Sacro Bosco – the "Park of the Monsters", full of strange 16th-century sculptures.

Where to stay

AreaWhy stay there
ViterboMedieval atmosphere and spa pools nearby
Lake BolsenaSwimming and lakeside towns
BagnoregioClose to Civita, peaceful at night
TarquiniaEtruscan sites and the coast
TuscaniaA quiet town with Romanesque churches

Getting there

Fly to Rome Fiumicino or Ciampino. Regional trains to Viterbo take roughly 1 hour 45 minutes to 2 hours, and the drive is around 1 hour 30 minutes. Orvieto, on the Rome–Florence line, is a good gateway for Civita di Bagnoregio and Lake Bolsena. A car is the easiest way to see the province.

Best time to visit

Spring and autumn are ideal. On 3 September, the Macchina di Santa Rosa, a towering illuminated structure about 30 metres tall, is carried through Viterbo's streets on the shoulders of local porters. Summer is good for the lakes.

Visit Civita di Bagnoregio early in the morning or at sunset, when the light is best and crowds are thinner.

Top attractions in Viterbo

Viterbo on the map

Frequently asked questions

Is Viterbo worth visiting?

Yes. Its medieval quarter, papal palace and nearby hot springs make it one of Lazio's most rewarding towns beyond Rome.

How do I get to Civita di Bagnoregio?

By car or bus from Orvieto or Viterbo to Bagnoregio, then on foot across the pedestrian bridge.

Can you swim in Lake Bolsena?

Yes. The lake has several beaches and is popular for swimming in summer.

Written by

Emma City breaks & deals editor

Emma plans city breaks the way other people plan the weekly shop: on a budget, with a spreadsheet and a backup plan. She covers city guides and deal-hunting.

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