- Oviedo's pre-Romanesque churches are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site
- Cider is poured from a height in the bars of Calle Gascona
- The Lakes of Covadonga and the Picos de Europa are about 1 hour 30 minutes away
- Asturias is green because it rains often, so pack a waterproof
- Airports
- Asturias (OVD), Santander (SDR) or Bilbao (BIO); ferry to Santander
- Best time to go
- June-September, with May and October for quieter touring
- Type
- Province
Oviedo is the capital of Asturias, a tidy, prosperous city with a pedestrianised old town, a Gothic cathedral and some of the oldest surviving churches in Europe, built when Asturias was a small Christian kingdom in the ninth century. It is also a great place to eat and drink, with sidrerías serving natural cider poured from shoulder height to aerate it.
Asturias is a single-province region, so Oviedo is the gateway to everything: a rugged coastline of coves and fishing villages, the Picos de Europa national park, and green valleys full of cows and stone granaries. See our Asturias guide for an overview of the region. Galicia lies to the west and Cantabria to the east; our Spain guide covers the rest of the country.
Things to do
- Pre-Romanesque churches – Santa María del Naranco, a former royal hall, and San Miguel de Lillo stand on a hillside just outside the city, while San Julián de los Prados has early wall paintings. They are part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Oviedo Cathedral – a Gothic cathedral whose Cámara Santa holds early medieval treasures, including the Cross of the Angels and the Cross of Victory.
- Old town – stroll from Plaza de la Catedral to the Fontán market and Plaza del Fontán, with its arcades and colourful houses.
- Calle Gascona – the street of cider bars, nicknamed the Cider Boulevard. Order a bottle and the waiter will pour it in small measures.
- Covadonga and its lakes – the shrine of Covadonga, built into a cliff, and the glacial Lakes of Covadonga high in the Picos de Europa. Access by car is restricted at busy times, with buses from Cangas de Onís.
- Cangas de Onís and the Cares Gorge – Cangas has a famous Roman-style bridge, and the Cares Gorge walk is one of Spain's classic hikes.
- Coastal villages – Cudillero's colourful houses tumble down to a harbour, Llanes has beaches and cliff walks, and Lastres and Ribadesella are pretty fishing towns.
- Gijón – Asturias' largest city, with a long beach, a Roman bath complex and a lively seafront, about 30 minutes from Oviedo.
Where to stay
| Area | Why stay there |
|---|---|
| Oviedo old town | Walkable, close to the cathedral and cider bars |
| Gijón | Seaside city with beaches and good restaurants |
| Cangas de Onís | Base for Covadonga and the western Picos de Europa |
| Llanes or Cudillero | Coastal stays with beaches and cliff walks |
Getting there
Asturias Airport, near Avilés, is about 40 minutes from Oviedo; check current routes from the UK, which tend to be seasonal. Santander and Bilbao airports, with more UK flights, are roughly 2 and 3 hours' drive away respectively. Brittany Ferries to Santander is a good option for a road trip. From Madrid, trains take roughly 3 hours 30 minutes since the opening of the new tunnel through the mountains. A car is essential for the Picos and the coast.
Best time to visit
June to September is the warmest and driest period, ideal for beaches and walking, although August is busy with Spanish holidaymakers. May and October can be lovely and quieter. Asturias is green for a reason: rain can fall at any time of year, and winters are mild on the coast but snowy in the mountains. Oviedo's San Mateo fiestas take place in September.
Try fabada asturiana, a rich bean stew, and cachopo, two veal fillets stuffed with ham and cheese, then fried. Portions are huge, so consider sharing.
Top attractions in Oviedo
LandmarkAlhambra
A hilltop palace-fortress of carved stucco, tiled courtyards and water gardens, the Alhambra is the high point of…
LandmarkPark Güell
Gaudí's hillside park of mosaic benches, gingerbread-style lodges and a famous dragon, with sweeping views over…
MuseumPrado Museum
One of the world's great art museums, the Prado holds Spain's royal collection, from Velázquez's Las Meninas to Goya's…
LandmarkReal Alcázar
A dazzling Mudéjar palace and gardens in the heart of Seville, still used by the Spanish royal family and famous as the…
LandmarkSagrada Família
Gaudí's unfinished basilica, with its forest-like nave and glowing stained glass, is Barcelona's must-book sight.
NatureSerra de Tramuntana
A UNESCO-listed mountain range of stone villages, olive terraces and hairpin roads along Mallorca's north-west coast.
Oviedo on the map
Frequently asked questions
Is Oviedo worth visiting?
Yes. It is a pleasant, clean and very walkable city, with unique churches and some of the best food in Spain.
How long should I spend in Asturias?
At least four or five days to see Oviedo, a stretch of coast and the Picos de Europa.
Why is cider poured from a height?
Asturian natural cider is not fizzy, so pouring it from a height, a technique called escanciar, aerates it. Drink each small pour quickly while it is lively.
Can you drive to the Lakes of Covadonga?
At most times of year, yes, but access is restricted during peak periods such as summer and holidays, when you must take a bus from Cangas de Onís or nearby car parks.
Written by
Thomas Ski, mountains & expeditions editor
Thomas is happiest above the tree line or below the Antarctic Circle. He writes our ski, mountain and polar expedition guides.
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